Is Housing Overvalued?
September 9th 2010 by Paul | Housing
An interesting survey of all the factors that may have affected house prices in recent decades.
September 9th 2010 by Paul | Housing
An interesting survey of all the factors that may have affected house prices in recent decades.
July 9th 2010 by Paul | Investing, Money, Retirement, Saving
I’ve written a savings bonds calculator to help you determine the value of I- and EE-Series savings bonds. I hope you find it helpful! If you have any suggestions to make it more user-friendly, I’d be glad to hear them.
June 25th 2010 by Paul | Investing, Money, Retirement, Saving
I recently read the book Savings Bond Advisor by Tom Adams, and I thought I’d recommend it for anyone interested in savings bonds. This book is in its fifth edition, and the author runs a very active website where he answers questions and posts the latest data. Before I read this book, I spent hours researching savings bonds online. Finally I got the book, and I wish I had just started there. The information is much fuller than I could find anywhere else, and I discovered many things I had missed.
Adams begins by arguing that over the last decade, savings bonds have been a better investment than the U.S. stock market. He presents the following chart:
The black line is your total investment, if you saved a fixed amount every month. The red line is your equity if you invested it all in the Vanguard 500 Index Fund, and the blue line is your equity if you put it into I-Series savings bonds. As you can see, the savings bonds come out on top. Adams starts the chart from 1999 because that’s when I-Series bonds first became available.
To some extent, this is cherry-picking a date, because the stock market has been practically flat over the last decade due to all the crashes. But that is part of Adam’s point: stocks are currently not paying sufficient premium for the associated risk. Therefore you may be better off in savings bonds, where the risk is far less. At the very least, this chart should shake up the notion that bonds are a necessary but disagreeable part of your portfolio, like eating vegetables. In the last decade, their returns were not too shabby!
Adams covers the various types of savings bonds out there: I-Series and EE-Series, which are currently available, and older bonds that are still bearing interest but are no longer available, like the E-, H-, and HH-Series. The newest kind of bond, the I-Series, pays the combination of two interest rates: a fixed base rate than doesn’t change, and another rate that is indexed to inflation. The inflation component changes based on the Consumer Price Index (CPI).
This built-in inflation protection makes the I-Series bonds a great choice, because traditionally inflation has been one of the biggest risks to putting your money somewhere with a fixed rate of return. If you buy I-Series bonds and the dollar inflates, then your bond earns extra in interest. On the other hand, if the dollar deflates, you earn less, but the total interest rate never drops below zero, so you are as protected against deflation as if you held cash. This makes it a very safe investment.
Both EE- and I-Series bonds also have tax advantages. Their interest is exempt from state income taxes, and if you use them to pay for college, it is also exempt from federal. But it’s easy to get disqualified from the college deduction, so Adams offers another idea, based on the fact that instead of paying taxes when you cash the bond, you can pay tax each year as interest accrues. Adams points out that you can file a 1040 for your children each year, declare the interest, and pay no taxes on it if your children have no other income for that year. In this way, the tax for the bond is “paid” as you go and you don’t have to worry about whether it’s used for college or if your children will be eligible for the deduction.
Adams has lots of other advice about how to buy bonds for your children, including whose name to put on the bond. This has major implications for control of the money and inheritance. He goes through all the possibilities in detail and offers his recommendations.
He also has information on how to keep track of your bonds, including desktop and web-based computer databases that record them and report information about their current value. This can be especially helpful in warning you when a bond stops bearing interest, because at that point you’re losing more money the longer you wait to cash it.
I was very impressed with this book. Finding so much information in one place made it easy to understand how savings bonds work, how to buy them, and how to plan for taxes and inheritance.
Although this is a great book, I’m not sure I-Bonds are still such a great investment. Lately they are paying almost no interest: the current rate is 1.74%. That’s better than you can get in a savings account, and I guess in a deflationary environment any interest is good interest, but keep in mind that you have to hold these bonds for 5 years before you can cash them in without penalty. Deflation is so intolerable to governments, many people are worried about severe impending inflation. In theory the I-Bond would capture whatever inflation we see, but the CPI generally understates the actual inflation in the economy.
Disclaimer: The content on this site is provided as general information only and should not be taken as investment advice. All site content, including advertisements, shall not be construed as a recommendation to buy or sell any security or financial instrument, or to participate in any particular trading or investment strategy. The ideas expressed on this site are solely the opinions of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent the opinions of sponsors or firms affiliated with the author(s). The author may or may not have a position in any company or advertiser referenced above. Any action that you take as a result of information, analysis, or advertisement on this site is ultimately your responsibility. Consult your investment adviser before making any investment decisions.
June 10th 2010 by Paul | Money, Taxes
It looks like the White House wants to eliminate the mortgage interest deduction, and Congress might just go along.
h/t Tax Prof
June 10th 2010 by Paul | Money, Saving, Taxes
If you had the choice of earning an extra $1000 a year or saving another $1000 a year, which would you choose? I know a businessman who is fond of saying, “There is no substitute for revenue.” True as that is, if you are able to save more, it’s worth noting that a dollar saved is actually more than a dollar earned. That is because every dollar you earn is taxed, whereas a dollar saved you keep whole.
Paradoxically, the more you earn, the more valuable it is to save. The actual value of new dollars depends on your marginal tax rate. If you are in the 15% income bracket, you get to keep more of each dollar than if you are at 35%. How much do you get to keep? Well, that’s simple math, but consider that it also depends on your state income tax, city/county income tax, and FICA taxes (Social Security and Medicare). FICA tax in 2010 is 7.65% on your first $106,800 of taxable income, then 1.45% on the rest. (It’s actually 6.2% for Social Security, cutting off at $106,800, and 1.45% for Medicare, with no cutoff.) If you are self-employed, you pay twice this amount (a little less, actually, because of the deductible).
June 9th 2010 by Paul | Money, Saving
Here is an article about why using MPG to measure fuel economy is misleading. It points out that going from 10 mpg to 20 saves five times as much gasoline as going from 33 to 50.
The article suggests switching the metric to “gallons per 100 miles.” This would let people more directly calculate their fuel savings, and hence what they save by buying a more fuel-efficient car. Consider that a 33-mpg car uses 3 gallons to go 100 miles, whereas a 50-mpg car uses 2. That’s only a savings of 1 gallon per 100 miles. But improving efficiency matters a lot more for less-efficient vehicles. At 10 mpg, you use 10 gallons per 100 miles, and at 20 mpg you use 5. So that shift would save you 5 gallons rather than just one.
What I find more interesting is that even if we compare 10-to-20 vs. 33-to-66, so that we double efficiency on both sides, then going 10-to-20 still saves more gas (and money) than going 33-to-66. A 66-mpg car would use about 1.5 gallons to go 100 miles. So the first move saves us 5 gallons, whereas the second saves only 1.5.
The point isn’t that a 20-mpg car is better than a 50-mpg one. Of course 50 mpg is better. The point is that we have diminishing returns; the benefit of raising efficiency becomes less and less. Suppose you have two cars, one at 10 mpg and one at 33, and you can pay to upgrade one or the other. It’s better to upgrade from 10 mpg to 20 than to upgrade from 33 mpg to 50. Alternatively, if you’re researching ways to improve fuel efficiency, you’ll get more bang-for-buck by improving the efficiency of SUVs and construction equipment than of small commuter cars.
Finally, since most people drive a fixed distance per year, considering gallons-per-mile can help you better decide whether it’s worth paying more for that Prius.
June 5th 2010 by Paul | 401k, Investing, Money, Retirement, Saving
Here is an interesting article about hidden fees in 401ks.
It is short on details, but it sounds like that’s partially because these fees are difficult to detect. If you have a 401k, you should probably ask your fund manager about fees. Unmatched contributions might do better in a different account.
h/t patrick.net
June 3rd 2010 by Paul | Basics, Money, Taxes
This is the first in a series of articles covering “The Basics.” I hope that most articles on this site will provide advanced information and analysis that is hard to find elsewhere, but those articles generally assume a high level of initial knowledge. The Basics series is intended to help readers get up to speed so they can make the most of the more advanced articles.
Our income tax system is based on progressive taxation. This means that higher earners pay not just more in taxes, but they also pay a greater proportion of their income in taxes. In the United States, in 2010, a person earning $30,000 a year pays income tax at 15%, but a person earning $500,000 pays income tax at 35%. These different percentage levels are called “tax brackets.” The various tax brackets are 10%, 15%, 25%, 28%, 33%, and 35%, depending on your income.
The income levels that put you in a given tax bracket change depending on your filing status. For instance, if you’re single, you reach the 25% bracket sooner than if you’re married. There are four different filing statuses: single, married filing jointly, married filing separately, and head of household. Here are the tax brackets for each filing status:
| If you income is between… | …your tax rate is: | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| $0 | and | $8,375 | 10% |
| $8,375 | and | $34,000 | 15% |
| $34,000 | and | $82,400 | 25% |
| $82,400 | and | $171,850 | 28% |
| $171,850 | and | $373,650 | 33% |
| $373,650 | and | above | 35% |
| If you income is between… | …your tax rate is: | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| $0 | and | $16,750 | 10% |
| $16,750 | and | $68,000 | 15% |
| $68,000 | and | $137,300 | 25% |
| $137,300 | and | $209,250 | 28% |
| $209,250 | and | $373,650 | 33% |
| $373,650 | and | above | 35% |
| If you income is between… | …your tax rate is: | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| $0 | and | $8,375 | 10% |
| $8,375 | and | $34,000 | 15% |
| $34,000 | and | $68,650 | 25% |
| $68,650 | and | $104,625 | 28% |
| $104,625 | and | $186,825 | 33% |
| $186,825 | and | above | 35% |
| If you income is between… | …your tax rate is: | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| $0 | and | $11,950 | 10% |
| $11,950 | and | $45,550 | 15% |
| $45,550 | and | $117,650 | 25% |
| $117,650 | and | $190,550 | 28% |
| $190,550 | and | $373,650 | 33% |
| $373,650 | and | above | 35% |
The first three filing statuses should be self-explanatory, but what is “Head of Household”? Basically, this means you are unmarried but paying for at least 50% of your residence and supporting one or more children. More formally, the requirements are:
If you qualify for Head of Household status, you should take it, because its tax brackets are better than tax brackets for Single status. If you are married, the choice is more complicated. The income levels for Married Filing Jointly are all exactly twice the levels for Married Filing Separately, so there is no obvious advantage to one over another.
Note however that the brackets for Married Filing Jointly are not twice the brackets for Single. They are less. Similarly, the brackets for Married Filing Separately are less than those for Single. This means that two married people will pay more in taxes than two single people. This is popularly known as the “marriage penalty.”
Now it’s important to understand that tax rates are marginal. This means that if you’re in the 28% bracket, you don’t pay 28% on all your income; you only pay 28% on the amount of income within that bracket. So all people filing as Single pay 10% on their first $8,375 of income, then 15% on the next $25,625 (up to $34,000 total), then 25%, etc. That highest rate you’re paying is called your marginal tax rate. It’s the rate at which your next dollar is taxed. Your marginal rate is used to calculate the value of things like deductions. If you can deduct, say, $1,000 from the your income, and your marginal rate is 28%, it means you’ll pay $28 dollars less in taxes. (Of course this assumes you don’t cross over into another tax bracket, but the likelihood of that is low.)
Consider what would happen if your marginal rate applied to all your earnings. Then it would be better to earn $34,000 and be taxed at 15% for $5,100 than to earn $34,001 and be taxed at 25% for $8,500.25. That’s almost twice as much tax, all because you earned one extra dollar! In other words, that dollar cost you $3,400.25. That’s some expensive income!
Marginal tax rates do complicate income tax computations. You can’t just take your income and multiply by a percentage. Instead of you have to go in steps: 10% of the first $8,375, 15% of the next $25,625, etc. Of course when you file your taxes you can just look up your tax in the tax tables at the back of the instruction booklet, but if you’re planning ahead, it’s useful to know how to calculate your tax rate by hand. You could just use this calculator:
Note that this is just an estimate, since it doesn’t take into account any tax credits you may qualify for. Also, make sure that in the Taxable Income field you are subtracting all deductions and exemptions from your income.
Although it is true that marginal tax rates mean you can’t be punished for earning that next dollar, in some cases earning $1 more can hurt you, because of how tax breaks end or phase-out at certain levels. For a low-income example, the Earned Income Tax Credit gives extra money to poor families with children, but only if they have less than $3,100 dollars in investment income. That includes interest from savings accounts and government bonds. So suppose you are a student living on very little, and you cash some bonds your parents bought during your childhood. If you earn more than $3,100 from the bonds, you are disqualified from the credit. Earning $3,099 lets you take it, but earning that extra $1 disqualifies you. In 2010, the EIC is worth up to $5,666. Maybe you should hold those bonds for another year or two!
May 25th 2010 by Paul | 401k, IRA, Investing, Money, Saving
This is a slightly-edited version of a previous post I wrote for my programming blog. It’s about why inverse and leveraged ETFs are terrible long-term investments, simply because of the mathematics.
First, a bit of background: an ETF is an Exchange-Traded Fund, a pretty new thing. It’s not a stock, but a type of derivative used to track something else, such as a sector of stocks. In this regard it’s a bit like an index, but more flexible. So you could have an ETF tracking the performance of pharmaceutical stocks, or financial stocks, or the S&P 500. They are a little different from index-based mutual funds. You can trade them any time during the day, and they don’t have the high minimum purchases required by some mutual funds. On the other hand, you pay a commission, unlike a non-load mutual fund. (In some cases this may not be true.)
But the really interesting thing about them is that they can be leveraged or inverse. A leveraged fund aims to achieve some multiple of the daily change of the underlying index. So while the SPY fund tracks the S&P 500, you can get 2x the S&P 500 (both up and down) with the SSO and SKF funds. This greater volatility gives you the potential for more profit with each trade, diminishing the relative size of the commission. It’s a bit like you invested twice as many dollars as you actually have.
An inverse fund is a leveraged fund with a negative multiplier. You can get funds at -1x, -2x, or I think even -3x. This essentially lets you short the market, something difficult for retail investors to manage. Also, unlike with shorting, you don’t risk an unlimited amount of money. You only risk the money you use to buy the ETF.
The fly in the ointment is that ETFs, when leveraged or inverse, gradually decline in value. This has taken many people by surprise, but the information is getting out there. Nowadays you can find it on many websites. The information that seems harder to find is how fast is the decline? This is what I want to analyze.
First let’s just demonstrate the basic phenomenon. Let’s say we have an index that start at 100, declines to 80 (-20%), then goes back up to 100 (+25%). Now let’s say we were tracking it with four ETFs, a 1x, a -1x, a 2x, and a -2x. They all start at 40. Here are the results:
| Fund | t0 | t1 | t2 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Index | 100 | 80 | 100 |
| 1x ETF | 40 | 32 | 40 |
| -1x ETF | 40 | 48 | 36 |
| 2x ETF | 40 | 24 | 36 |
| -2x ETF | 40 | 56 | 28 |
As you can see, all our ETFs lost money, except the 1x version. Conspicuously, the -1x and 2x ETF lost the same amount, but the -2x ETF lost more. If we had reversed the order of changes (100 to 125 to 100), we would see the same results.
So I set out to analyze the mathematics behind all this. Let’s start with some equations describing our targeted fund, the index. I’ll call its initial value T. Our intermediate value will be T’. Our final value will be T”—but of course this is equal to T. Let’s call the first percent change d, and the second percent change d’. That gives us these equations:
T’ = T + dT
T = T” = T’ + d’T’
If we substitute T for T’ and solve for d’, we get:
T = (T + dT) + d’(T + dT)
0 = dT + d’(T + dt)
-dT / (T + dT) = d’
d’ = -d / (1 + d)
Now let’s write out the equations for our derived fund, D (the ETF). We’ll use D, D’, D” to correspond with T, T’, T”. The multiplier of our ETF will be f. So in a 1x ETF, f = 1, but in a -2x ETF, f = -2. That gives us these equations:
D’ = D + fdD
D” = D’ + fd’D’
Substituting, we get:
D” = (D + fdD) + f * (-d/(1+d)) * (D + fdD)
So far so good, but I’m really interested in the percent lost for each up-and-down cycle. The absolute loss is D – D”, so the percent loss is (D – D”) / D. Let’s call this L. That gives us:
L = (D – D”) / D
L = (D – ((D + fdD) + f * (-d/(1+d)) * (D + fdD))) / D
L = (D – D – fdD – f * (-d/(1+d)) * (D + fdD)) / D
L = -fd – f * (-d/(1+d) * (1 + fd)
L = fd/(1+d) * (1 + fd) – fd
L = fd(1+fd) / (1+d) – fd(1+d) / (1+d)
L = (fd(1+fd) – fd(1+d)) / (1+d)
L = fd(1+fd-1-d) / (1+d)
L = fd(fd-d) / (1+d)
L = fd2(f-1) / (1+d)
L = f(f-1) * d2 / (1+d)
That final equation tells us that the loss is proportional to f and d. Well, d is kind of obvious: the more our underlying index changes, the more the ETF will change. But f is quite interesting. The more leveraged we are, the more we lose on each cycle. Although neither factor is as simple to write out as we might like, consider this. f(f-1) is almost f*f, or f2:
f*(f-1) < f*f
f*(f-1) < f2
The effect of f is almost a square. We could imagine this as f1.9, although that isn’t quite right.
At first glance, it seems we could make a similar simplification with d, since d2/(d+1) is a little less than d2/d:
d2/(d+1) < d2/d
d2/(d+1) < d
So d’s effect would be a little less than d: sort of like d0.9. But this is misleading, because d2/(d+1) only approximates d for large values, and our d will (probably) never go above 1. In fact it’s only interesting for values like 0.01 or 0.1 or maybe (gulp) 0.5. At that range, we get values like:
| d | d2/(d+1) |
|---|---|
| 0.01 | 0.00009 |
| 0.02 | 0.00039 |
| 0.03 | 0.00087 |
| 0.04 | 0.00153 |
| 0.05 | 0.00238 |
| 0.10 | 0.00909 |
| 0.20 | 0.03333 |
| 0.30 | 0.06923 |
| 0.40 | 0.11428 |
| 0.50 | 0.16666 |
The graph looks like this:
Or at close range, like this:
All this means that comparatively speaking, f has a greater effect than d.
We could chart f’s effect for different levels of leverage:
| f | f(f-1) |
|---|---|
| 1 | 0 |
| 2 | 2 |
| 3 | 6 |
| 4 | 12 |
| 5 | 20 |
| 6 | 30 |
| -1 | 2 |
| -2 | 6 |
| -3 | 12 |
| -4 | 20 |
| -5 | 30 |
In other words, each “step” up in leverage increases your loss, and going inverse counts as one additional “step.”
By multiplying these values with those from d’s table, you can see your loss for each cycle. For a 2x or -1x ETF, you lose about 2% of your investment for each 10% cycle, or 0.02% for each 1% cycle. For a -2x ETF, you lose about 6% for a 10% cycle or 0.06% for a 1% cycle. Best not to stay in these investments for too long!
The next question is: how long is right? I guess you could look at the last few years to count the number of cycles, and try to figure out an ETF’s theoretical decline if the market had no net change. But the conventional wisdom answer seems to be about a week, and this sounds right to me. You’re really betting on the direction of the next move, and if you get that wrong, it’s going to cost you. So to make money with these ETFs, you need to get not just the direction right, but the timing, too. It’s hard enough just to get the direction! This need to be right about timing makes them risky for the same reason options are risky: your bet only has so long to play out.
Now here is another thought. Take a look at a graph of f(f-1):
As you can see, between 0 and 1, this graph dips below 0. That means that if you had a x0.5 ETF, say, you would actually make money over time. I wonder if there are practical reasons to prevent this, or if the return is just too small, so you’d do better putting your money in a bank. Anyway, it’s an interesting thought. . . .
May 19th 2010 by Paul | Housing, Money, Retirement, Taxes
One of the surprises of our state tax comparison table is that for a typical middle-class family or single person, Idaho has one of the worst tax burdens. For instance, suppose you are single and make $60,000 a year. You are renting, so you pay no property tax. Each year you spend $5,000 on food and $20,000 on other things that incur sales tax. You also drive 10,000 miles at 25 miles per gallon. With those numbers, Idaho comes in 51st place, with an estimated tax burden of $5217.13. It’s worse than California, Massachusetts, Washington, D.C., New Jersey, Hawaii, and every other “high-tax” state out there. If you drop your annual taxable expenses to $10,000 (a more likely number), then it comes in 50th place, second only to Hawaii.
This is unexpected, because Idaho is usually considered one of the most conservative states in the country. Recently some scholars produced a report on the fifty states ranking them by freedom. Idaho has one of the best scores on economic freedom, and it is fourth overall. Another website lets you adjust the weight of each factor in the study, and if you set everything but taxes to zero, Idaho comes out at 18th—not the best, but still better than average. Finally in the state income tax comparison by the Tax Foundation, a non-partisan organization devoted to tax awareness education, Idaho ranks 13th for 2008 (the latest year available). So what’s going on here?
The discrepancy seems to be due to how we judge taxes. The State Freedom Index study seems to include corporate taxes, which don’t show up in our table. The Tax Foundation study is based on per capita income tax, which is skewed by the number of millionaires and billionaires living in your state. Our table shows what you yourself would actually pay, given your situation. It can be surprising how it contradicts the conventional wisdom!
But Idaho has a top tax rate of only 7.8%. How can its taxes be higher than states like California (10.55%) and New York (8.97%)? The answer lies in the tax brackets. In these other states, the high tax rates don’t kick in until relatively high income levels. In Idaho, you start paying 7.1% after just $6,604. In California, at $6,604 you’re paying just 1.25%, and in New York 4%. California’s tax rate doesn’t go over 7% until $37,233 of income, and New York’s until $200,000. So these states do more to shelter the middle class from their high tax rates. Remember that tax rates are marginal, so in New York a person making over $200,000 is still paying a low rate on his first $200,000 in income; the higher rate applies only to what exceeds $200,000.
One other factor is that Idaho sales tax includes food, whereas California and New York do not tax most food purchases. In our example, this accounts for another $300/year in Idaho taxes.
This is all not to say that Idaho is a worse state to live in financially. Housing costs are much lower, as are other aspects of cost-of-living. But if you were expecting to move there to escape high taxes, you might be disappointed!